Frank, KOBERG prescription frames are usually quite purist. Why did you intentionally need to develop into extra expressive with the SUN OF KOBERG assortment?
We didn’t merely need to place tinted lenses into present fashions. For a lot of wearers, sun shades are extra of a press release than prescription frames. Somebody who prefers restraint of their corrective eyewear typically dares to go slightly additional with sun shades.
The distinctive milling subtly remembers a steampunk aesthetic of the Nineteen Eighties. Was this reference a part of your thought from the start?
Delicate is the correct phrase! It’s meant to be a small memory of a cool aesthetic that’s each retro and futuristic. We intentionally wished to take a brand new stylistic route and develop into slightly louder and extra technical. It’s not meant to be a DIY aesthetic – we’re merely enjoying a bit with design components.
How do you handle to protect the clear KOBERG DNA regardless of these totally different design components?
We felt that our lighter, extra delicate temples would harmonize effectively with the extra expressive heart elements. Broad, heavy temples wouldn’t be KOBERG.
What function do structure or industrial design play in your inventive course of?
They really play a serious function. What pursuits me most are clear technical options. I prefer it when design follows perform – and when that relationship stays seen.
You selected block titanium. Why?
Titanium is a wonderful materials for eyewear. It’s mild, effectively tolerated, and visually putting and clear. Our manufacturing companions even have robust experience in working with block titanium. And we wished to indicate what sort of milling is feasible. With our prescription frames, we normally take away materials solely very subtly in sure areas.
What are the largest technical challenges when working with stable milled titanium?
Apart from the hardness of the fabric, primarily the colour coating. The three dimensional milling creates much more edges – and colour doesn’t significantly like edges.
The entrance seems highly effective, whereas the temples are intentionally slim. How do you develop this stability?
In reality, the temple continues to be wider than the rim of the body. And the ratio of 5 to a few millimeters is usually perceived as particularly harmonious.
The coloured accent on the hinge is a typical KOBERG element. What does this small aspect imply to you?
The coloured accent has been the distinctive design aspect of KOBERG frames from the very starting. Initially, the cylindrical, screwless hinge itself was color-accented. Later, with the titanium frames, we decreased this to a small plate on the transition between the middle half and the temple. We don’t need to place a emblem on the frames, so the coloured accent has develop into a refined signature aspect.
You depend on high-quality Divel lenses from Italy. What standards do you utilize when choosing your companions?
Before everything, our companions should meet our high quality requirements. However it’s simply as essential for us to seek out companions on equal footing – companions you possibly can depend on. Companions with whom you might be glad to embark on an extended journey collectively.
Mirrored or gradient — which tells the extra attention-grabbing story for you?
We intentionally use mirrored lenses much less typically. They have an inclination to look extra distant. Gradient lenses, however, really feel extra open and attention-grabbing.
How essential is the interaction between body colour and lens aesthetics to you?
After all, I would like the body and lens to harmonize completely. Solely then does the sunglass obtain its refined look. That mentioned, our KOBERG sun shades – like every prescription body – can simply be fitted with lenses. Which means not solely corrective lenses but additionally fully totally different colours or finishes can be utilized.
What does “Made in Germany” imply to you right this moment — high quality, perspective, or each?
You possibly can really obtain good high quality nearly anyplace – in case you are prepared to pay for it. However the highest high quality just isn’t achieved by performing a ultimate inspection sooner or later. We need to be concerned within the manufacturing course of itself – and that’s merely simpler with companions close by. On the similar time, Made in Germany just isn’t a dogma for us. We search for the absolute best high quality and are glad when it comes from Germany.
How a lot craftsmanship really goes into one in every of these sun shades?
After the milling of the fronts and temples, quite a lot of guide work is required. Even the temple bend of the stable materials with its delicate edges requires plenty of sensitivity. Laser-welding the hinges and the ornamental plate on the temple, in addition to the freehand lacquer finishes, additionally demand quite a lot of ability and expertise. The entire ultimate meeting takes place in our eyewear workshop in Münster.
Who did you design this assortment for — what do typical KOBERG clients seem like?
The standard wearer is somebody who has discovered their very own model and doesn’t want validation by a model emblem. They’re in search of excellent high quality and longevity in each design and materials. The identical applies to the feminine wearer.
Is that this extra expressive line an experiment or the start of a brand new design section?
How are you going to already know that? Anja Hungerkamp, who works with us as a contract designer, has in actual fact developed new fashions which can be slightly extra expressive than the earlier KOBERG model.
If you happen to needed to describe the gathering in three phrases — what would they be?
Clear, sustainable, high-quality.
On a private word: which mannequin do you your self desire to put on — and why?
From the SUN OF KOBERG assortment, I desire the big aviator form. I just like the model of the Nineties. As a prescription body, I’ve now chosen a basic acetate panto – one thing that matches effectively with Münster. However the brand new KOBERG acetate fashions inform fairly a special story.
Thanks.
pictures: OLIVER SPIES [Munich]
make-up: LISET GARCIA
hair: DIRK WALTHER BARNET CONCEPT
styling: CHRISTINE BAUMANN
fashions: ELISABETH, KATHA, VINCENT, ANAIS, FINN, BENJAMIN, JULIEN, KRIS at TIGERS MGMT
